Thursday, 22 September 2011

The Japanese Kimono


Although today, the kimono ( 着物) is most often worn by women on special occasions such as weddings and tea ceremonies, the kimono, like any form of art, has evolved through many historical periods, and taken on several various styles. The word kimono literally translates into a “thing to wear” (ki - “wear” and mono - “thing”). It is a traditional Japanese T-shaped, full-length robe, made from a single bolt of fabric called a tan. This tan consists of four main strips of fabric, two panels covering the body and two panels for the sleeves. They are wrapped around the body with the left side covering the right and fastened by a sash called the “obi” (except when worn as mortuary clothes, in which case the right side covers the left).

The earliest known kimonos in history came to as early as the 5th century, and were greatly influenced by Han Chinese clothing. However it wasn't until 300 years later, during the Japanese Heian period (794 – 1192 AD), that a new kimono-making method was developed, involving assembling straight pieces of fabric together, and resulting in the straight-line-cut kimono. Over time, this traditional, simple garment has kept its basic shape, but has become increasingly stylized, as Japanese people began paying attention to colour combinations, the obi “belt”, sleeve length, and materials.

Although they are traditionally made of silk and sewn by hand, even today's machine-made kimonos require substantial hand-stitching and decorating. They are worn today as a layer on top of undergarments, and the pattern is usually determined by the season in which it is worn; example, a kimono with cherry blossoms would be worn in spring. Modern kimonos are largely available in cheaper fabrics such as rayon or polyester, and lesser quality, but the cost of a kimono today that has been made with exceptional skill and materials can exceed $10,000. The modern kimono typically consists of twelve or more separate pieces, and can range from formal to casual, with many varying styles depending on the woman's age, social status, marital status, and the occasion;

Furisode – formal kimono for an unmarried woman

Homongi – “visiting wear”, formal wear which can be worn by both married and unmarried women

Iromuji – monochrome kimono worn mainly to tea ceremonies

Komon – Kimono with a fine repeated pattern, which can be worn as casual wear, or dressed up with a formal obi

Mofuku – formal mourning dress for both men and women, made of black silk.

Tsukesage – the less formal version of the homongi, with more modest patterns covering a small area. Can be worn by married or unmarried women, it is generally used for parties rather then more important occasions.

Uchikake – the most formal kimono, worn over another, simpler kimono. It worn usually at weddings or stage performances.

Susohiki/Hikizuri – longer then a regular kimono, worn by geisha or stage performers in traditional Japanese dance.

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